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that place: my next stop

In a post a few weeks ago I mentioned an opportunity would take me away from my friends for a while. Well now everything is booked and the trip is planned and done. From mid-June through mid-September I’ll be heading down to the landlocked South American country Bolivia for work.

La Paz, my home for the summer. Photo by 4photos.net

La Paz, my home for the summer; photo by 4photos.net

My base in Bolivia will be in La Paz but I’ll be spending the summer traveling around the country and hopefully will get to see and experience it all. Rosetta Stone is downloaded to my phone and I’m pretty much ready to go, but as always your tips, tricks and general suggestions are appreciated.

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detour: otavalo

No trip to Ecuador would be complete without visiting famed market town Otavalo. Approximately two hours outside of the bustling capital, the Otavalo region offers visitors an escape from the frenzy and a glimpse into traditional Andean life. The locals who call the area home are some of the most educated and wealthy indigenous peoples in the world, a result of the towns famed market and traditional crafts industry which lures visitors here in troves.

While many people head straight to the market and then back to Quito, the Otavalo region has so much more to offer. From lazy city plaza’s to traditional towns and impressive nature, regret is not an emotion you’ll experience for spending a few days here.

Otavalo here we come

Otavalo here we come!

incredible views from the drive

views from the drive

 

visiting the markets in Otavalo should be on any Ecuador traveler's bucket list, but instead of heading straight to the Mercado Artesanal check out Mercado 24 de Mayo, just to the left of the main market entrance

visiting the markets in Otavalo should be on any Ecuador traveler’s bucket list, but instead of heading straight to the Mercado Artesanal check out Mercado 24 de Mayo, just to the left of the main market entrance, to stock up on produce and traditional street fare

Mercado 24 de Mayo grub: steak and the best lentil and beet salad I've ever had; mashed potatoes, cheese and aji to go in a bag; the freshest of produce; grilled corn with mayo and queso fresco; this little piggy went to the market...

Mercado 24 de Mayo grub: steak and the best lentil and beet salad I’ve ever had; mashed potatoes, cheese and aji to go in a bag; the freshest of produce; grilled corn with mayo and queso fresco; this little piggy went to the market…

artisanal souvenirs from the market; a misnomer, the "panama hat" is actually from ecuador

some of the available goods to purchase at the Mercado Artesenal; a misnomer, the “Panama hat” is actually from Ecuador

the indigenous people are the heartbeat of the region

the indigenous people are the heartbeat of the region…

...and the fervent culture

…and the fervent culture

for those wanting an escape from cramped Quito, the Otavalo countryside if filled with sleepy open air plazas and quiet town streets

for those wanting an escape from cramped Quito, the Otavalo countryside is filled with sleepy open air plazas and quiet town streets

as well as the chance to explore nearby mountains and nature like Cuicocha Lake nestled into the base of Cotacachi Mountain

as well as the chance to explore nearby mountains and nature like Cuicocha Lake nestled into the base of Cotacachi Mountain; be sure to go into town and stock up on leather goods from the towns many shops, the best of which line Diez del Agosto 

cruising around

cruising around

the Otavalo adventures of Katie and Sarita

the Otavalo adventures of Katie and Sarita!

How to get here:

From Quito, catch a direct bus to Otavalo from Terminal Carcelen, located in the north of the city. The approximately 2 hour ride will cost you $2 and drop you off at Otavalo’s small bus station.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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that place: the 50 most popular

brought to you by Forbes Traveler; click to enlarge

brought to you by Forbes Traveler; click to enlarge

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that place: luang prabang

There are a few special cities in travel lore. The ones where travelers who plan to stay a couple days end up staying a couple of weeks or even years; the cities that forever imprint themselves on those who have visited and who vow to return.

When planning my visit to Laos a few months ago, all the guidebooks claimed that Luang Prabang was just such a place. I, on the other hand, was skeptical. Not that I didn’t envision myself enjoying Luang Prabang. I did. I thought it would be lovely, a great place to spend a night before heading out to Thailand and our beach adventure. Twenty-four hours, surely that would be enough to take in it all.

Well, I was wrong. Really wrong. From the moment we stepped out of our hired van, I knew I had made a mistake. Situated along the shores of the sleepy Mekong River, Luang Prabang emanates charm from its every quirky pore. Though nowhere near a beach, the city has a beach town feel. Situated in the heart of Southeast Asia, speckles of France are felt throughout. Unlike many other cities in the region, Luang Prabang is calm. The whirl of motorbikes and tuk tuks is subdued and pedestrian travel, the transport mode du jour. By midnight, the streets are silent- a city wide curfew curtails activities from running any later. A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, possible urban development is limited. Luang Prabang is seemingly cemented in this bewitching state.

Part of the appeal is the duality of an abundance and both nothing to do. During the day, one can hike Mount Phousi, boat down the river or go a little further afield for some big adventure. If relaxation or culture is more your thing, Luang Prabang is brimming with both. Spiritual yoga studios abut ethereal temples; a lively night market takes over the city streets which a few hours later are calmed by tranquil monk led morning alms.

But far more than what there is to do, Luang Prabang just draws you in. The city embodies the perfect balace of buzz and calm, nature and culture, entertainment and peace, all held up by a divine backbone.

luang prabang from the top

luang prabang from the top

cafe city views

cafe city views

the sleepy mekong

the sleepy mekong

happy hour mekong cocktails

happy hour mekong cocktails

street views 1...

street views 1…

...2...

…2…

lpstreets3

… and 3

luang prabang youth

luang prabang youth

street side pancakes

street side pancakes

and little street side restaurant

and little street side restaurant

local art

local art

luang prabang shopping at night

luang prabang shopping at night

early morning monks

early morning monks

I generally have a rule of only visiting a place once. For Luang Prabang, I’m willing to break that mold. I know now when I return I’ll go for far longer than one day, maybe a couple weeks or even more. Luang Prabang is the place to lose and find yourself all over again, and I can’t wait to add my story to the city’s chronicles.

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Where to Stay: 

The Mekong Holiday Villa offers great budget accommodations along the banks of the hotels namesake river. With doubles running between $35-55 per night night, the affordable rooms seem though they should cost far more. For those wanting a little more luxurious digs, locally owned Kiridara is your spot.

Where to Shop: 

Luang Prabang Art Studio showcases local Lao artist, Vunhuhai’s contemporary work. To peruse before you buy, visit the gallery’s official site.

Where to Get Spiritual and Then Grab a Burger and Drink:

Luang Prabang’s Utopia is a yoga studio come restaurant and bar. By day stretch out on the facilities river front desk and practice the physical, mental and spiritual discipline in the midst of its’ homeland. At night, the studio turns into the city’s premier gathering space, its restaurant and bar popular with both the local and expat crowds.

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detour: mount phousi

climbing the 328 steps to the top

climbing the 328 steps to the top

we made it!

we made it!

luang prabang from the top

luang prabang from the top

resident buddhas

resident buddhas

dragon staircase leading to way

dragon staircase leading the way

mount phousi as seen by the monks

mount phousi as seen by the monks

roll call

roll call

monk spy hole

monk spy hole

a little more monk spying

a little more monk spying

the walk back down

the walk back down

mount phousi sunset end to a great day

mount phousi sunset end to a great day

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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that place: a home away

Hotels are a travelers home away from home, the place from which journeys begin and end everyday. There used to be a time when any place to put my head down while traveling would do. I relish the hostel days- hose years provided for great experiences and memories, with dozens of friends made along the way.

As I get older, however, I am less inclined to fit as many people as possible into one crammed hostel or hotel room. I like my private showers and appreciate amenities, I don’t get to go on vacation that often (well that’s a lie) and enjoy actually feeling as if I am on one. A full-time grad student, my budget unfortunately is more like it was back in my backpacking (well, I never really did that either) and hosteling days. The perfect balance for me as I approach my late twenties is luxury that comes cheap.

Laos is the perfect destination for travelers looking for a little extra bang for their not many bucks. On this past adventure I was lucky to find hotels that made you never want to leave and were affordable enough that you didn’t have to. Below you’ll find a two of the gems I found along the way, my personally approved recs for your next stay (yes, I know that rhymed).

Hotel Khamvongsa 

Khun Bu Lom Road, Ban Vat Chan, Vientiane, Laos, +856 21 223 257, hotel.khamvongsa@gmail.com

Quiet and relaxing with a colonial feel, Hotel Khamvongsa is located in the heart of Vientiane, a short stroll over to the Mekong River waterfront. The tasteful rooms are the perfect place to return to after a long day exploring the nations capital. The staff is friendly, the hotel spotless, the breakfast delicious and the overall ambiance- just lovely. The rates at Hotel Khamvongsa are pretty lovely too- a single room going for $35 a night and a lofted suite able to accomodate three a mere $80. Breakfast and wifi are included in the deal, and airport pickups can be arranged for only a few dollars more.

hotel entrance

hotel entrance

breakfast and bar area- included options include asian, european, american and "farmer" options as well as coffee, tea, shakes and more

breakfast and bar area- included options include asian, european, american and “farmer” options as well as coffee, tea, shakes and more

our loft room

loft room for three

view from our room

view from our room

GoogleMapMod

convenient location

Ban Sabai Bungalows

Sisavang St, ban viengkeo, Vangvieng District, Vientiane Province, Laos, +856  23 511 088, bookingbb@inthira.com

Normally a backpackers paradise, the Ban Sabai Bungalows offer a peaceful retreat in the heart of Vang Vieng. Situated directly on the shores of the Nam Song River, the resort style bungalow complex is hidden away from the bustle of town. The accommodations are clean and basic, offering travelers a little more than most of the low budget hotels in the area with a price that’s just right. Rooms range from $34-58 a night, a little bit more during the high peak season. Breakfast with a killer view is included, the view baguettes alone reason enough to return.

bungalows by day

bungalows by day

bungalows by night

bungalows by night

waterfront breakfast dining

waterfront breakfast dining

THE VIEW

THE VIEW

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that place: or is it the people?

So often when traveling the focus is on the place; we chose to go on beach vacations, jungle excursions or mountain treks. Brochures, advertisements and websites boast of natural resources and built infrastructure that become the primary tours used to lure travelers to a destination.

I find, however, when traveling it is often the people of the destination that make the difference and leave a lasting impression. It is the community’s’ culture that we visit, their service we experience and the interactions with them that create unique experiences as we go from destination to destination.

Looking back on my trip to Peru this past March, of course I remember the resounding majesty that is Machu Picchu. The rolling hills leading into steep terrain will not soon be forgotten. So too will the vast lakes, colorful markets and picturesque cities that give Peru its’ individual flair. But I keep going back to the people. The friendly faces I encountered during my time there will forever be engrained in my mind as the image of Peru. Brimming with local pride the Peruvians I met were eager to share their culture, both ancestral and modern, and give tips to travelers simply looking to find their way around. A country’s people are its best tourism resource for it is the people that actually interact with visitors on the day-to-day.

some of the people from along the way

The people of Peru embody the welcoming spirit of the country- one which is thirsting to share its’ treasures with the world. Peru invites travelers to come live the legend. In my opinion, the people of Peru are the greatest legend of them all.

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that place: 10 for 2013

As 2012 wraps up, my thoughts are quickly turning towards a new year and new travels. Below are my top ten destinations for 2013 (in no particular order). Hopefully I’ll make it to a few if not all of these remarkable locales. With so much out there to see, I better get a move on it.

1. Baku, Azerbaijan

Azerbaijan is quickly becoming the go to destination for the world’s jetset. For years Azerbaijan has been hidden in the little visited Caucasus, but now the dust has settled and this energy rich nation is taking center stage. Baku is the nations capital and the crown jewel of Azerbaijan. Here five star hotels and chic boutiques mingle with an enchanting landscape and an ancient cultural heritage. Nestled between the Great Caucasus Mountains and the Caspian Sea, Baku and Azerbaijan offers something for everyone. Though the masses have not reached here yet with the abundant opportunities available they are bound to any moment. I want to get here and experience Baku and Azerbaijan now before they do.

clockwise from top left: countryside church in the rolling Azerbaijani landscape, photo by Amoo Afshin; popular Bilgəh beach on the North Coast of the Absheron Peninsula, photo by @kemalbayik; Baku at night, photo from http://www.azeri.net

2. Malta

We all know I love a good beach and a Mediterranean one at that. Lying south of Sicily, Malta is a tiny archipelago nation with a longstanding heritage and a vibrant coastal landscape. North African and Arabic influences give Malta it’s unique flair as the quintessential Mediterranean beach destination with so much more to offer. While Santorini, Mykonos and Ibiza may be more well known, Malta is the perfect escape for those seeking something a little off the Mediterranean path.

Blue Lagoon in Malta, photo by John Elk III for Lonely Planet

3. Bodrum, Turkey

In keeping with my coastal affinity Bodrum, Turkey is high on my list. My last visit to the country kept me mainly inland visiting cultural capital Istanbul and uniquely lunar Cappadocia. Bodrum offers a dichotomy of Turkish experiences I can not wait to realize. From ancient architecture and heritage to a bohemian beach paradise, Bodrum is a fascinating place to take in the country’s East meets West vibe.

dusk settling in over Bodrum, photo taken from http://www.strandedpassengers.org

4. Beaver Creek, Colorado

Because it’s not exactly roughing it and that’s exactly how I like to ski. I look forward to my annual weekend at this Colorado ski town which gets better with every trip. From the warm cookies to impecable service and friendly faces, Beaver Creek takes the chill out of the season.

not exactly roughing it

5. The Gambia

The smallest country on the continent of Africa, The Gambia is big on both culture and nature. Only 500 km long and 50 km wide, The Gambia is engulfed entirely by Senegal except for an 80 km shoreline that boasts pristine beaches that rival the best in the world. Nature reserves give visitors a feel for African wildlife, and consuming markets inundate the senses with The Gambia’s colorful local heritage. The village of Juffere on the banks of the River Gambia pays homage to the slave trade that forever left its mark on the country.

clockwise from top left: Banjul beach, photo taken from http://www.manchesterairport.co.uk; Kombo beach at dusk, photo taken from Clav’s photostream; Banjul ferry system, photo taken from http://www.horariodeferry.com

6. Portland, Maine

Friendly locals, cherished traditions, old-style Americana and good food describe the seaside city on Maine’s Southern coast. The largest city in the state, Portland has plenty to offer including a high density of boutique shops, quirky galleries, local museums and quality eateries. I’ve been meaning to make it here for the past few years and I think that in 2013 I finally will.

clockwise from top left: quintessential Maine- Cape Elizabeth, photo by Jon Davison for Lonely Planet; the Exchange Area of the city, photo by John Elk III for Lonely Planet; fresh lobster and all the fixins, the original Maine delicacy, photo by the Portland Lobster Co.

7. Portland, Oregon

The Pacific Northwest is known for its scenic beauty, old town feel, propensity for the outdoors and fresh ingredients used to create a uniquely local cuisine. While Seattle has long stolen the regions’ spotlight, Portland, Oregon is quickly rising up the ranks. “The City of Roses” is as laid back as they get, and has an impressive array of amenities for locals and tourists alike to enjoy. Sweeping vistas provide the backdrop for this hip city that is at the forefront of environmental sustainability. The one region of the U.S. I haven’t been to, I think Portland and Oregon would be a great first stop.

from left to right: “Welcome to Portland”, photo by Andrew Hall for Portland Bridges; downtown Portland with Mt. Hood in the background, photo by Jennifer Lee Brown

8. Quito, Ecuador

This ancient Incan city is now Ecuador’s capital and the first city along with Krakow, Poland to be named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nestled between two volcano peaks, the natural setting of this alpine city is sure to take one’s breath away. The original indigenous character of Quito remains today, with bustling markets and religious traditions spilling out onto the city streets. Not usually the first stop on a South American itinerary, Quito is the city for those wanting to experience authentic Andean flavor.

the Basílica del Voto Nacional impressive architecture shows off Ecuador’s (more recent) Catholic history, photo by TravelMarx

9. Penang, Malaysia

Penang is Malaysia’s culture capital full of ull of Malay, Chinese, Indian and European influences. With attractive beaches and world renowned street food, Penang is my ideal destination. Maintaining a greater colonial heritage than elsewhere in the country, Penang is Malaysia’s premier cultural destination and one not to miss in the upcoming year.

from left to right: boats docked on a secluded Penang beach, photo by Ibrahim Alwabil; small dock out on the water, photo by http://www.penangpage.com; fishing village, photo by fiftymm99; infamous Penang hawker food, photo by @backpackies

10. Myanmar

Hidden from the Southeast Asian tourist path, Myanmar is the region’s hidden gem. Under repressive military rule for years, Myanmar, formally known as Burma, is beginning to come out from the shadows. The year 2011 saw the freeing Noble Peace Prize recipient Aung San Suu Ky and political prospects from the country are starting to look good. While the State Law and Order Restoration Council kept out the majority of tourists to Myanmar, it also inadvertently protected the country’s trove of heritage resources. Perfectly preserved  temples and stupas dot the landscape which is home to a friendly and polite population with ethnic Chinese and Indian roots. As the political climate continues to better, Myanmar is sure to become increasingly popular with the backpacking set.

the temple dotted landscaped of Bagan, photo by audiegrl

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detour: on a far east food tour

New York City is home to many ethnic enclaves but none may be as vibrant and other-worldly as Flushing’s Chinatown. A trip to the neighborhood in the borough of Queens assaults the senses and transports visitors  deep in the heart of China and the Far East. While the Chinese population is currently the most prominent, Korean and Taiwanese communities are quickly growing in size.

The neighborhood resembles the communities homeland, with street side carts, stalls and restaurants serving up authentic bites to those aching for a taste of home. Traditional pharmacies provide ancestral remedies for a variety of ailments and supermarkets import the freshest of goods from China and beyond.

A trip to Flushing is almost as good as a trip around the globe and a great way to escape the typical New York hum drum. Even if you can’t make it to Flushing anytime soon yourself, take a tour of neighborhood through the images below.

Welcome to Flushing. To get here from Manhattan, take the 7 train into Queens and ride it til the last stop.

Chuar, the Chinese version of a shish kebob, is a popular street side snack. In my opinion, the lamb version is the best.

Streetwise Tours guide Alex, an American who came to love chuar while living in China; Lamb chuar close-up.

The grill masters at work whipping up batches of grilled goodness for the Flushing masses.

Flushing is a foodie haven. Stall after stall offer fresh snacks to be eaten immediately or to take home, all with the traditional flavors and brisk service of their Chinese counterparts. Prices are similar to those in China as well, with the majority of street cart offerings coming in at around $1. The busier the stall= the better you can bet the food will be.

Street side carts are only one of the many places to sample beloved Chinese bites. At Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao, waiters serve up Michelin recommended dim sum.

The specialty of the house? Shangai style soup dumplings.

No foray into Chinatown would be complete without Chinese delicacy Peking Duck. This stand and restaurant serves up a popular rendition.

Peking Duck on a steamed bun close-up.

American Chinese food lovers may think they know what the cuisine is all about. Most of the Chinese food in America is accommodated to the Western palate and includes a variety of dishes from mostly the Hunan, Szechuan and Canton provinces. Xi’an Famous Foods serves up flavors from its’ namesake ancient capital in Western China. Situated on the Silk Road the food from this region is original fusion, blending the flavors of the Far East with those of the Middle East.

If all the food sampling has done a number on your stomach, not to worry, Flushing’s Chinatown is also home to a number of traditional pharmacies stocking ancestral remedies for any ailment imaginable.

Chinese medicines and tonics straight from China. The pharmacist here will prescribe a series of elixirs that promise to make patients feel better in no time.

Traditional remedies are not the only thing to be imported from the mother country. Supermarkets import the freshest of local ingredients from the region for local community members looking to purchase a piece of home.

Supermarket madness as patrons dash around to purchase coveted goods from their homelands.

Some of the seafood available for purchase, much of it live as is the preference of the local community.

No tasting tour is complete without traditional sweets. While the foods in Flushing’s Chinatown tend to lean towards the savory, the New World Mall food court has options for those with a sweet tooth. Taiwanese snow ice is a popular choice and a delight for those looking for a sugar fix. Shaved ice is doused with flavored syrup and served with ice cream, beads of agar agar and fresh fruit. The ending result is a soupy mass of sugary amazingness that will surely be cause for a smile. Above from left to right are the strawberry, mango and black bean versions.

Just a few stops on the 7 train and New Yorkers can find themselves a world away. The scents, tastes and traditions of the Far East are hard to ignore here, and instead become an all encompassing escape.Ethnic enclaves like Flushing’s Chinatown allow the local community to maintain a cultural bond with ancestral lands and foster cross cultural interaction between those who visit and those who live in these spaces.

Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao (aka Nan Xiang Dumpling House), 38-12 Prince St, Flushing, Queens, 718 321 3838, Mon-Sun 8 AM- 5 PM

Xi’an Famous Foods, 41-28 Main Street Bsmt #36, Flushing, Queens, Mon-Sun 10:30 AM- 9:30 PM

New World Mall Foodcourt, 136-20 Roosvelt Ave, Flushing, Queens, 718 353 0551, Mon- Fri 9 AM- 10 PM

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As always, thank you Andrew, Alex and the entire Streetwise New York Tours team.

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